Have oil dripping from the oil pan gasket at a rate of two drops every two seconds when the engine's warm/hot. Makes a puddle the size of a small table every day.

Have never replaced a gasket this size, only gaskets on oil filters.

Is gasket sealer required, suggested?

Any helpful hints, suggestions, advice, instructions, thoughts?

Bought the cork gasket from Walacks.

thanks,

greg

Greg

Before you tear into the oil pan make sure it’s the problem. It could also be the front seal, rear seal, timing cover, the lines to and from the oil filter, tappet cover and/or the top valve cover. Get a can of engine cleaner at your local parts store – clean the engine – run the engine and watch for the first signs of oil leaking and note where. This way you fix the correct spot instead of taking the time and trouble replacing what could be a good oil pan gasket.

Good advice Ratchet.

If you decide you need to replace the oil pan gasket, first, straighten the oil pan lip;

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Engine/Rebuild7.html

"Fixing Distorted Sheet Metal Covers"

Then apply a thin coat of gasket paste on the oil pan.
(I use Permatex 2)
{DO NOT use RTV on any cork gasket. The gasket will just slip out of place when you tighten the bolts}

Place the gasket on the oil pan and install pan to block. Tighten bolts in turn, snug, then go around again snugger, then torque to 9-14 lb-ft.

Good luck.

Greg,
Ratchet's advice is spot on! There are many trained mechanics that can make this mistake. Many different ways to determine leak after cleaning, just make sure all the crud and mess is off prior to testing. This works for any leak.

Now, let's say you checked and nothing above the oil pan is leaking - and you've ruled out all other possibilities. There is an excellent article on rebuilding an F-head engine on the 3B page: http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Engine/Rebuild7.html

This link specifically addresses a very common problem: Distorted bolt holes. If your bolt holes are dimpled, you could ruin a brand new gasket and really get frustrated. I followed the technique to repair my oil pan (a little over half the holes were dimpled) and then checked the timing gear cover and transfer case cover and noticed this simple procedure works everywhere! I did have to cut a bit of the washer off to get it to fit down inside the recess around the oil pan, but no big deal. Just make sure the washer fits flat on the opposite side.

Once the gasket surface is flat, you can get a good seal - just don't over tighten the bolts!

Edit: Don You posted faster than I could type!! LOL

But Rus,, you are so much more elegant !! :rolleyes:

All the advice above.
If you decide to remove the oil pan take a good look up inside the engine while you can.
Make sure all gasket surfaces are completely solvent cleaned before appling any cork gasket sealer.

Really glad you all realize what I need to hear and know. These things you've all mentioned may be obvious to you; I'm grateful that you realize they're not obvious to me. You've mentioned what most manuals don't mention, because the assumptions of the manual writers is that those reading the manuals have more experience than I do. As I've mentioned before, what NOT to do is usually not mentioned in manuals, and it's the NOT-TO-DOs that can ruin a day and some parts.

When I get further, no doubt, I'll have more questions.

Thanks,

greg

OT, you've suggested that once the pan is off that I take that opportunity to look closely at the underside of the engine.

Looking closely and knowing what to look for are two different things. Please tell me what I should look closely at in a way that would alert me to what you already know from having seen all the parts to a Hurricane 134 from every conceivable angle. I surely don't know what to observe or what should alert me to a problem (other than a pile of broken gears).
Thanks,

Greg

Mainly I hope you to take the oppertunity simply to observe the interal parts.
By looking you gain the ability to formulate thoughts with the observations.
The mind can only process so much information at any given time.
Then sleep is required to store that memory.
One only becomes proficient through time and exposure.

For starters you can see how the oil pickup float moves up and down plus determine if the pickup screen needs cleaning.

You can see the bottom of the valve tappets.
They should appear to be polished perfectly smooth.

Mainly you could take a light and look up into and see the condition of cylinder walls.
Walls in nearly new condition will reveal a diamond cross hatch pattern from the honing process.
Light verticle scratches and wear patterns occur over time.
Notable deep verticle scores indicate the need for a rebuild.

Finally if you observe something that seems atypical you can ask about it before you re-install the oil pan.

Also if you remove the oil pan you'll see there are 20 bolts and lockwashers.
If you have and reinstall the crankshaft pulley shield all bolts will be 5/8" long.
If you do not have or do not re-install the crankshaft pulley shield the 4 front oil pan bolts should be 1/2" long.

Greg

we'll make a pro out of you in no time

To all those who have attempted to describe some extremely basic things to me, thank you.

To the recent posts from OT and Ratchet: OT, I will observe what you described and have some questions. Ratchet: "Expert," no that's not my expectation; if I "move" from knowing something, then I'll be far from where I am now, my goal. If I had more years to live, I WOULD imagine expert could be possible, in five more more years of daily application. Time, yes; lots of time it will take me; but if everyone's patient, then, it will be like I owe a lot to you all.

One thing, I've observed, other people don't take care of your stuff, which is motivation alone to learn how to do all this myself. That's not counting mechanics who claim they know what they're doing when the don't. If something's going to be screwed up from lack of competence, I'd rather it be me and not someone else who screwed it up. Now I have a better understanding why most of you work on your own jeeps. Now I understand why you might consider paying someone to do what many of you have been "teaching" me as something that's intolerable. I've always thought self reliance was required for everything but anything mechanical or electrical. What this forum, and my situation, has taught me is that I was wrong (and stupid) to think that way.

greg

When I installed the oil pan on my fresh rebuild just a few days ago I used standard cork pan gasket.
I applied a very thin film of Permatex Ultra Black to both sides of the cork.
The Ultra Black has exceptional oil resistance but it is silcone based.
As Don mentioned silicone sealers will allow the cork to slide away and deform under pressure.
For that very reason I only tightened the pan bolts until the cork began to move.
I did not tighten them enough to distort the gasket.
I allowed the Permatex to dry for 24 hours or more before fully tightening the pan bolts.
Zero cork distortion and silicone can work !
Actually the Ultra Black begins to set up fairly quick.
The idea is to get the gasket on before the sealer looses its tackiness !