Engine hoist - which bolts?

So, I am ready to attacka the engine in the resto, the engine is on a stand at the moment but I'd like to hang her so I can work a bit easier arround the engine. Can anybody advice wich bolts I can hang off?

Looking at hanging it so I can strip and paint, but also work on it to service waterpump etc...

Pictures would be REALLY appreciated!

Must update my website....

rcolijn,
What an interesting question. What I was shown, and what I've done since is to attach the hoist chain to diagonally opposed head bolts. I seem to recall seeing other configurations like using a bell housing bolt as one of the mounts. The hoist chains that have the flat plates at each end are the ones I like the best. But I’d only use the hoist for lifting to remove or install an engine.

To continue with my opinion, I think trying to do ANY work on an engine while it's dangling from a hoist is like trying to hold a piñata still while working on it. If you want to strip (means you’ve got to do some type of scrubbing) then having that thing bounce around just seems like adding extra work to the project.

Having your project on an engine stand should make everything easier. You can spin the engine to any orientation - to get in those nooks and crannies and not have to get on your hands and knees to get to the bottom of the engine. And when you get to painting, you can spin it to ensure all surfaces are covered before moving on. Plus, the extra added benefit is I think it’s much more secure on the engine stand! I may be wrong but from memory, I’m thinking the legs (where the wheels are attached) on a hoist are longer than the ones on an engine stand, meaning you’d need more floor space to maneuver it around.

I know this is 180 from where you wanted to go, but I’m only offering my own opinion for what I’d do.

supercheap and all those other mobs around Perth have engine stands going pretty cheap all the time- Worth while getting one like Rus says.

Last time I tried working on an engine dangling on chains it kept trying to attack me.

proper stand is much safer!

stephen.

Using 2 diagonally opposed head bolt taps works well for engine lifting because it balance the block very well.
But for engine dis-assembly and rebuild I have never used a stand.
I do use a small flat roll around dolly.
With the head removed the 134 engines are flat at both top and bottom.
I really don't have enough room to keep an engine stand for the Willys engine nor the need.
I admit that next winter I may need to build a stand for rebuild of a Dauntless V-6.

Where I used to work, there were no engine stands for several years. In fact, when they did become popular the mechanics provided their own. Before we got them we used one of several stoutly-built wooden tables about 36" square. Once the crankshaft was in the block we would install the flywheel then stand the engine on the flywheel. The block could be turned around the crankshaft to change the position of the crank in the block. BW

I have two of these chain sets with a piece of angle I use to bolt to the block with or without the head. I bolt on all 4 corners and would encourage you to use at least four bolts if you're going to leave your block hanging for a while. I'd hate to see the block deformed at the bolt hole due to the stress.

Thanks Don, this gives me a great idea, I will fabricate the chains and hang on a beam to work on tonight.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I will do "the work" on the stand but will do the painting on chains as I reckon it'll be more accesible from all angles.

Dont worry I wont swing it:)

Honestly weather cleaning,rebuilding or painting the engine stand is the best way by far! Room to work and rotates easily for access to every nook and cranny! Just did the 4.0 I am adapting into my 72 Commando.