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 f-head valve guide, removal
mikes half cab
Posted: Aug 10 2010, 08:57 PM


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does anyone know if the valve guide is removed from the top or bottom .its a 1963 f-head motor that needs a new valve and giude.thanks. huh.gif
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jeeper50
Posted: Aug 11 2010, 05:53 AM


ol' skool jeeper jeff


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Joined: 17-October 08



Intake guides are in the head, exhaust guides are in the block and are a PITA to remove and install. I had a machine shop replace my exhaust guides during rebuilding.

I have read that the exhaust guides are driven down and have to be broken off as they come out to clear the tappet.

Intake guides are easier 'cause the head can be taken to a machine shop for repair.


--------------------
In the land of the blind... the one eyed man is king
Texan at heart, Georgian by paycheck

'53 CJ3B, F134, 12v alternator, lockrights, 11"self energizing brakes, Koenig King PTO winch (in garage), restoration of replacement tub and frame in work hope to swap over to them soon.
Tx wheelin pics- http://community.webshots.com/user/fallout96
TN wheelin pics at Coal Creek OHV-
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/willysnut/Windrock06/
Kayaks- Tarpon 160, Tarpon 140-ready to fish...
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jyotin
Posted: Aug 11 2010, 06:24 AM


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It is possible to remove valve guides from the block.

However, unless you have the correct press equipment it will prove to be extraordinarily difficult to do.

Anytime I want to replace the valve guides in the block I take it to a machine shop and they press the old one out and new one in.

Even the shop has had problems removing them -- or at least they have complained about how hard it was to replace them.

By the way, if one is bad it is likely that the other three are bad as well.

j


--------------------
It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today.
54 - 3B - down on the farm
67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue
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mikes half cab
Posted: Aug 11 2010, 10:17 AM


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thanks for all the help.-mike
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oldtime
Posted: Aug 11 2010, 10:49 AM


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I don't find them hard to replace. But then again I use special homade tools.

One tool is designed for removal.
It is a simple drift with a snug fitting pilot shaft that fits into the valve stem bore and uses a collar to push on the guide.
The collar diameter must be just shy of the guide bore diameter.
The intake guides should be sprayed with penetrant then driven down and out with the head inverted.
The exhaust guides should be sprayed with penetrant then driven down into the block.
Exhaust guides will clear the tappet area just fine.

Installation of all guides is much more critical than removal. Here's my procedure:
The new guides are placed in the deep freeze.
They are not touched by hand when they are removed individually.

Intake guides are rushed over to the clean, oiled head in its inverted position.
They are quickly placed taper end down into the guide bore and driven in.
They are driven in with a homade drift.
The drift pin fits inside the guide the drift pin collar must fit the guide squarely.
Stop driving when the guide is flush with the combustion ceiling.

Exhaust guides are rushed over to the clean, oiled block which is room temperature.
They are quickly placed correct side up into the guide bore and driven in.
The drift pin fits inside the guide the drift pin collar must fit the guide squarely.
The exhuast guide installation tool utilizes a "stop".
The stop face is driven down to the top of the block "deck".
This positions the guide depth to the 1" below deck specification.
(No time to measure because the cold guide will diissipate quickly)

Mentally rehearse the procedure before attemping since timing is crucial.
Never had a bad one yet !


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1964 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
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mikes half cab
Posted: Aug 11 2010, 07:08 PM


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thanks for all the information.im going to try freezing it like you said.thanks-mike.
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HAMMERHEAD76
Posted: Mar 21 2012, 03:00 PM


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sorry to wake this thread up, but I have a question about exhaust valve guide replacement. I removed the old guides and froze the new ones. I lubricated the block, but the guides shatter on me when I go to drive them in. What am I missing?
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oldtime
Posted: Mar 21 2012, 06:28 PM


MODERATOR


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Posts: 4,573
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Joined: 12-July 08



HAMMERHEAD76,
Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board !

QUOTE
sorry to wake this thread up
If you find any old post needing correction or clarification just bring it right back up.

I froze the guides to about zero degees.
I use an Ampco (brass) 3 pound hand hammer with a short handle.
Do not drive directly onto the guides with the hammer head.
Use a well fitting drift with a collar designed to evenly spread the blow.
You can use an old valve shaft with a steel collar squarely welded onto the valve shaft.
Note; Valve shafts are a little on the soft side.
The improvised tool might bend if not struck squarely.
A depth limit gauge is also helpful for the exhaust valves.

Also it may be possible that some aftermarket guides are inferior quality.
I never recommend any new replacement stock (NRS) parts from Ommix Adda.


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1964 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
Top
jyotin
Posted: Mar 23 2012, 11:11 AM


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Group: Members
Posts: 658
Member No.: 29
Joined: 18-October 08



I'd like to second the thought on Omni-Adix. Their parts most times "look" like the originals, but seldom function the same.

A friend who owns a premier 4x4 shop used to do some quality testing for Omni-Adix. He rejected so many of their parts that, instead of increasing their quallty, they fired him and went with a more "cooperative" tester.

j


--------------------
It's just my luck that something good is going to happen to me today.
54 - 3B - down on the farm
67 - cj6 - former state of Alabama vehicle
?? - cj5 T98a - made from spare parts - Ford tractor blue
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