zIFBoards - Free Forum Hosting
zIFBoards gives you all the tools to create a successful discussion community.

Learn More · Sign-up Now
Welcome to CJ3B Bulletin Board. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.

Join our community!

If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Name:   Password:


CJ-3B Bulletin Board

Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the forum of CJ3B.info. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived on the Tech Tips page. If you post a problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it will likely be useful to other readers. For forums covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.

Search for keywords or phrases anywhere in the CJ-3B Bulletin Board using Google. Enter key words here.

WWW CJ-3B Bulletin Board



 Valve Adjustment, correct way to adjust
mikes half cab
Posted: Jun 18 2010, 01:32 PM


Group: Members
Posts: 43
Member No.: 708
Joined: 2-November 09

biggrin.gif could anyone tell me the correct way to adjust the valves on a f-head motor.having trouble getting them properly adjusted.thanks.-mike.
Posted: Jun 19 2010, 11:13 PM


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 227
Joined: 7-December 08

This procedure works, but I'm not so sure that the cam lobes are 180 degrees apart. There's overlap at the top of the exhaust stroke with the intake and exhaust both open at the same time. So the lobes are actually 90 degrees apart...

It doesn't matter, though, because the goal is to get the cam follower onto the non-lobe part of the cam...
Posted: Jun 21 2010, 06:41 PM


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 5,417
Member No.: 3
Joined: 12-July 08

Man Oh Man,
Thanks for catching that one Dougie.
I owe you one rolleyes.gif

Got in a rush....tried to condense the information from an early post and ended up compromising the content.
I will soon delete the previous post so no one follows that nonsense and re-enter the complete version as it was originally posted on the old B.B.
The complete version is overly detailed and is boring as all get out, but at least it's accurate.

Currently rebuilding RANGER ... 1962 CJ-3B / Hurricane F-134 / T90C / 5.38 / Powr Lok Front and Rear / Deluxe Koenig Half cab
St Louis Area
Posted: Jun 21 2010, 07:23 PM


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 5,417
Member No.: 3
Joined: 12-July 08

> O.K. Even Jeep was very inconsistent over the years of 1941 through 1977 in giving the procedure for valve tappet adjusting.
Examples: In the earliest years W.O. gave no real procedure to adjust the tappets only the specifications.
In the 1950's they stated that tappets could be adjusted either hot or cold.
They even mentioned that the cylinder head should be torqued to specification before adjusting the tappets because
the head gasket compression could affect tappet clearance.
In the early 1960's Willys Motors said to adjust the valves cold.
At this time they stated to simply crank the engine over till that valve was closed before adjusting the tappet.
The problem here is that a valve may be closed but just barely so.
In 1968 Kaiser Jeep Corporation said to place each cylinder at TDC before adjusting the tappets for each cylinder.
This places the tappet onto the low portion of the camshaft lobe.

I say yes that is true but it does not place the tappet at the center line of the camshaft heel. (center of the lowest portion)
I say adjust tappet and rocker clearances only when the "opposing valve" is fully open.
This implys that the valve/ tappet you are adjusting must be fully closed.
With my procedure we are adjusting the tappet while the camshaft lobe is at the very center line of the lobe heel.
But MUCH MORE IMPORTANTLY we don't have to guess if the cylinder being adjusted is truly at TDC for that piston.
Since we are talking about a 4 stroke engine we must all understand the criteria for our particular four stoke design.
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Intake and combustion are always down strokes while compression and exhaust are always upstrokes.

Cylinder # !.......Cylinder # 2.......Cylinder # 3.......Cylinder # 4.......
down/intake = up/compression = up/exhaust = down/combustion
up/compression = down/combustion = down/intake = up/exhaust
down/combustion = up/exhaust = up/compression = down/intake
up/exhaust = down/intake = down/combustion = up/compression

Let me explain the term; "opposing"....
From the above chart or a look at the engine camshaft you can see that the opposing cylinder for # 1 is # 4
and the opposing cylinder for # 2 is # 3.
In fact the camshaft lobes are exact opposites for those cylinders.
Therefore if the tappet for #1 intake is on the peak of the camshaft lobe then the #4 intake (opposing tappet) is on the centerline of the camshaft heel .
If the # 2 exhaust is at its highest point the # 3 exhaust is at its lowest point and so forth.

I will also suggest that for a worn engine the tappet clearances be tightened slightly.
Meaning the feeler gauges should be snug tight upon insertion.
My reasoning for this is already covered in many service manuals under "Factors Affecting Valve Timing"
which has to do with camshaft driven gear backlash.
Perhaps if you first disassemble to inspect the rocker arm / rocker shaft condition. Then if you next adjust valves as I hopefully have clearly explained; then perhaps your valve train noise will subside.
Happy Wrenching ~oldtime~

F -134 intake adjustment is .018. The L -134 intake adjustment is .016. For both engines exhaust adjustment is .016.

Currently rebuilding RANGER ... 1962 CJ-3B / Hurricane F-134 / T90C / 5.38 / Powr Lok Front and Rear / Deluxe Koenig Half cab
St Louis Area
Scott Blystone
Posted: Jun 22 2010, 09:14 AM


Group: Members
Posts: 31
Member No.: 193
Joined: 4-December 08

You all forgot something about doing the valves on an F-Head:

Step 1. Grow a third arm/hand

I've never encountered any engine that made it more challenging to do the valves - exhaust ones that is.

I recommend buying some cheap box wrenches and grinding the back side of the jaw so they have more "throw". Then cut off the other end to shorten them so you have room to work.

And finally when it comes to valves, remember the old timers rule: "If you can hear them, they ain't burnin'"

Scott Blystone
Syracuse, NY
'53 CJ3B
'62 CJ5 Tuxedo Park F-head/3 on tree (Sold)
'59 Willys Wagon F-head/3 on tree
'49 Farmall Cub
1789 house, 1830 barn
« Next Oldest | CJ-3B Standard | Next Newest »
zIFBoards - Free Forum Hosting
Free Forums with no limits on posts or members.
Learn More · Register Now

Topic Options

Hosted for free by zIFBoards* (Terms of Use: Updated 2/10/2010) | Powered by Invision Power Board v1.3 Final © 2003 IPS, Inc.
Page creation time: 0.0359 seconds · Archive

Other Willys Jeep forums:

This-Old-Jeep has forums covering all models.
The CJ-2A Page has a CJ-2A Message Board.
There is also a CJ-3A Page Forum.
For CJ-5 and Dauntless V6 postings, see the Early CJ-5 Bulletin Board.
The Old Willys Forum is dedicated to wagons and pickups.
Surrey Gala and Dispatcher Jeeps are under DJ-3A Dispatcher Posts.
The M38/M38A1/M606 Preservation Group has a forum.
For other CJ and military Jeeps, see the g503 Message Boards.
See the Forward Forum for Forward Control Jeeps.
To post ads for other Willys parts or Jeeps, see the WillysTech Buy/Sell/Swap Message Board.
For tech problems with other Willys models, try the WillysTech e-mail list.
The Bantam Trailer forum covers Jeep trailers.