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 Valve Adjustment, correct way to adjust
mikes half cab
Posted: Jun 18 2010, 01:32 PM


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biggrin.gif could anyone tell me the correct way to adjust the valves on a f-head motor.having trouble getting them properly adjusted.thanks.-mike.
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Dougie
Posted: Jun 19 2010, 11:13 PM


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This procedure works, but I'm not so sure that the cam lobes are 180 degrees apart. There's overlap at the top of the exhaust stroke with the intake and exhaust both open at the same time. So the lobes are actually 90 degrees apart...

It doesn't matter, though, because the goal is to get the cam follower onto the non-lobe part of the cam...
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oldtime
Posted: Jun 21 2010, 06:41 PM


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Man Oh Man,
Thanks for catching that one Dougie.
I owe you one rolleyes.gif

Got in a rush....tried to condense the information from an early post and ended up compromising the content.
I will soon delete the previous post so no one follows that nonsense and re-enter the complete version as it was originally posted on the old B.B.
The complete version is overly detailed and is boring as all get out, but at least it's accurate.


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1964 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
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oldtime
Posted: Jun 21 2010, 07:23 PM


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Group: Co-Admin
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> O.K. Even Jeep was very inconsistent over the years of 1941 through 1977 in giving the procedure for valve tappet adjusting.
Examples: In the earliest years W.O. gave no real procedure to adjust the tappets only the specifications.
In the 1950's they stated that tappets could be adjusted either hot or cold.
They even mentioned that the cylinder head should be torqued to specification before adjusting the tappets because
the head gasket compression could affect tappet clearance.
In the early 1960's Willys Motors said to adjust the valves cold.
At this time they stated to simply crank the engine over till that valve was closed before adjusting the tappet.
The problem here is that a valve may be closed but just barely so.
In 1968 Kaiser Jeep Corporation said to place each cylinder at TDC before adjusting the tappets for each cylinder.
This places the tappet onto the low portion of the camshaft lobe.

I say yes that is true but it does not place the tappet at the center line of the camshaft heel. (center of the lowest portion)
I say adjust tappet and rocker clearances only when the "opposing valve" is fully open.
This implys that the valve/ tappet you are adjusting must be fully closed.
With my procedure we are adjusting the tappet while the camshaft lobe is at the very center line of the lobe heel.
But MUCH MORE IMPORTANTLY we don't have to guess if the cylinder being adjusted is truly at TDC for that piston.
Since we are talking about a 4 stroke engine we must all understand the criteria for our particular four stoke design.
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Intake and combustion are always down strokes while compression and exhaust are always upstrokes.

Cylinder # !.......Cylinder # 2.......Cylinder # 3.......Cylinder # 4.......
down/intake = up/compression = up/exhaust = down/combustion
up/compression = down/combustion = down/intake = up/exhaust
down/combustion = up/exhaust = up/compression = down/intake
up/exhaust = down/intake = down/combustion = up/compression


Let me explain the term; "opposing"....
From the above chart or a look at the engine camshaft you can see that the opposing cylinder for # 1 is # 4
and the opposing cylinder for # 2 is # 3.
In fact the camshaft lobes are exact opposites for those cylinders.
Therefore if the tappet for #1 intake is on the peak of the camshaft lobe then the #4 intake (opposing tappet) is on the centerline of the camshaft heel .
If the # 2 exhaust is at its highest point the # 3 exhaust is at its lowest point and so forth.


I will also suggest that for a worn engine the tappet clearances be tightened slightly.
Meaning the feeler gauges should be snug tight upon insertion.
My reasoning for this is already covered in many service manuals under "Factors Affecting Valve Timing"
which has to do with camshaft driven gear backlash.
Perhaps if you first disassemble to inspect the rocker arm / rocker shaft condition. Then if you next adjust valves as I hopefully have clearly explained; then perhaps your valve train noise will subside.
Happy Wrenching ~oldtime~

F -134 intake adjustment is .018. The L -134 intake adjustment is .016. For both engines exhaust adjustment is .016.


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1964 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
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Scott Blystone
Posted: Jun 22 2010, 09:14 AM


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Group: Members
Posts: 31
Member No.: 193
Joined: 4-December 08



You all forgot something about doing the valves on an F-Head:

Step 1. Grow a third arm/hand


I've never encountered any engine that made it more challenging to do the valves - exhaust ones that is.

I recommend buying some cheap box wrenches and grinding the back side of the jaw so they have more "throw". Then cut off the other end to shorten them so you have room to work.

And finally when it comes to valves, remember the old timers rule: "If you can hear them, they ain't burnin'"



--------------------
Scott Blystone
Syracuse, NY
'53 CJ3B
'62 CJ5 Tuxedo Park F-head/3 on tree (Sold)
'59 Willys Wagon F-head/3 on tree
'49 Farmall Cub
1789 house, 1830 barn
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