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Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the forum of The CJ3B Page. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived on the Tech Tips page. If you post a problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it will likely be useful to other readers. For bulletin boards and e-mail lists covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.

 

Pages: (2) [1] 2  ( Go to first unread post )

 Started restoring my CJ3B :)
rcolijn
  Posted: Jul 28 2011, 10:03 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Hello all and thanks for all the good info on here, its a pleasure to see so many good people caring about these good things!

I started a tear down and rebuild of my CJ3B from 1953. Australian and apparently used in the Korean war (have yet to see proof of it).

I am keeping a history on http://www.thewillysworkshop.com if your interested in pics and stories.

Till now all is going well, the body is off and will need a fair amount of work but all mechanicals and the motor and frame are rock solid.

Quick question, now the body is off what would be the best way of cleaning it in preparation for welding new plates in? I have a sand blaster but am wondering if thats too course? Or can I just sandblast anyways and cut through the paint to bare metal (which I'd like to do to paint and bog properly).

Any advice appreciated.

Happy 4 wheeling!
Ronald


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
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Bob_webber
Posted: Jul 28 2011, 04:58 PM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 312
Member No.: 1,116
Joined: 24-April 11



Neat site, i wish i knew how to do that kind of stuff. although if i could add some input, the 3b model was not used in WWII. it was not till after that the 134 f head was created, thus-forth requiring the higher hood. I believe the military version of a cj 3b (cj= civilian jeep) was considered a m606. I like the black and white color scheme of the site makes it look vintage as well. you can blast to remove paint and rust (just keep it away from any mechanical components) but you should still grind your welding surface. sandblasted metal should also be sanded slightly before applying primer as well. just keep in mind that even a humid climate will make the metal begin to rust pretty quickly so if you blast the whole tub you will want to be ready to spray primer within a reasonable time frame. smile.gif


--------------------
53 3b, early cj5 frame (hurricane),2.43 ratio t case 26 tooth with 1 1/4" case (my own creation), late 60's c5 ross steering box, all range od, parts from a welder generator, and parts from about 9 different jeeps and counting. my every last penny and ounce of patients creates what we call the FrAnken B, the jeep that never was

bob, north east Ohio
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rcolijn
Posted: Aug 2 2011, 10:10 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Frame is now bare smile.gif

user posted image

Only thing to do is remove this spacer but its jammed at the moment:

user posted image

I WD40'd for a while, wacked it with a hammer and chisel, even put the blow torch on (and yes I removed the tiny allan key which I first didnt see lol).

If anybody has some ideas (besides the angle grinder:) could really do with some help...

My Project Progress Page


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
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oldtime
Posted: Aug 2 2011, 10:54 AM


MODERATOR


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 4,420
Member No.: 3
Joined: 12-July 08



Need to heat with intense localized heat (oxyacetylene) to dull red stage.
Twist off when red hot.
Or else saw it off.
Or use a thin (1/16") cut-off wheel on your 4" right angle grinder.


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1962 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B / Warn O.D. / Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
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rcolijn
Posted: Aug 7 2011, 06:14 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Thanks mate, all done, angle grinder worked a treat, now have to find a new ring as I unfortunatly dont have a laith....

For those following progress, the frame is now clean as and there are no more parts to remove!

user posted image

This weekend I mainly spend on getting the rear axle clean, I had big trouble getting the plate where the wheel bolts are on of the axle, heat and pully both did not work. Its one of those very "handy" conical things. I finally managed to get it off by using a couple of bolts and the plate from the other side, which did come off:

user posted image

Now the frame and axles are clean and ready to be sandblasted!

If you want to see more check out
My Webpage





--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
rcolijn
Posted: Sep 13 2011, 09:25 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



I am completely finished with the frame, it was the first part really finished. I thought I was finished with the axles till I heard the wheel bearings grinding So I had a bit of head scratching to do how to get them out, in the end I used a bigger hammer

I have also got the sandblasting thing under control, and the POR15 people are getting pretty rich from my purchases!

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image


All drums have been reskimmed and I have relined shoes specially sized to the drums I have reconditioned the brake cylinders, main and wheel ones.

So now I am on the hunt for all new wheel bearings, anybody any good tips, they are way more expensive than I thought.....

For more pictures see My Webpage


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
rcolijn
Posted: Sep 16 2011, 05:15 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Ordered the bearings today, from A$370 quoted here in WA to A$181 in Queensland, including shipping and the same brand.

I ordered via http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/.

Can highly recomend them as they reply fast (as in hours/minutes in comparison to other websites which, after a couple of days, have still not replied). They know their stuff (I actually gave them a wrong number and they picked it up straight away.

Can't believe the price difference...

Can't wait to get them and finally get my axles on a rolling frame:)


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
rcolijn
  Posted: Feb 19 2012, 09:14 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



For those interested, the project continues:)

as of today my frame, axles, suspension, brakes and steering are complete!

I had some challenges with the Right Hand Drive (RHD) conversion.

First of all the space between the spring and the connecting rod wasn't enough, so I had to make some blocks between the spring and axle. yes I did make a hole in them to align them with the sping/axle:)

user posted image

Then the connecting tie rod which was new didnt work, the tapered end was the wrong way arround. Luckily my old one was still there and after a week or so soaking in degreaser, and some wire brushing she was looking like new again!

user posted image

At the moment she looks like this:

user posted image

Yes, the rims are sandblasted and etch primered too! One rim is painted and is looking good, the rest will come later in the week.

also working on the steering gears:

user posted image

Which is looking good after some soaking in pure degreaser, will replace both bearing balls and cups, and off course the gasket:)

Want to know more?
Check out my website http://www.thewillysworkshop.com/


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
ozmarty62
Posted: Feb 19 2012, 07:33 PM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 80
Member No.: 1,128
Joined: 7-May 11



It's great to see your progress Ronald. I'll post some pics of 'Trevor' soon too. Not progressing as quickly as yours, but getting there slowly.

Cheers,

Marty


--------------------
Current owner of;
1958 Right Hand Drive CJ3B.
2013 Jeep JK Rubicon Unlimited (from mid- January 2013)
former owner of;
1972 Jeep CJ5
1984 Mitsubishi Pajero (Montero) SWB
1996 Jeep ZG Grand Cherokee
2000 Land Rover Discovery TD5
2003 Jeep TJ Wrangler
2007 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia.
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rcolijn
Posted: Feb 22 2012, 09:47 AM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Thanks marty, yes would like to see your progress. I am not working fast but slowly getting there, maybe a couple of hours per week, but spread over a couple of days.

Today I started working on the brake line, seriously wondering if I'd like to make new ones. Some are reall rusted and crappy, but some are not that bad.

btw, does yours have a brake booster? Mine has one but I am wondering if this is added later, and if it was a good idea or not....

ps, wondering if anybody noticed that the steering box cover was upsidedown lol..


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
oldtime
Posted: Feb 22 2012, 10:11 AM


MODERATOR


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 4,420
Member No.: 3
Joined: 12-July 08



I re-furbish the orginal brake lines whenever feasable.
I wash them internally with straight alcohol.
Just run a piano wire through them with pipe cleaners in tow.


--------------------
1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1962 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B / Warn O.D. / Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
Top
ozmarty62
Posted: Feb 23 2012, 02:56 AM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 80
Member No.: 1,128
Joined: 7-May 11



Nope - no brake booster on mine Ron. Only one brake was working on mine when I picked it up. I destroyed some of my brake lines when trying to remove them unfortunately. I'll reuse what I can, and replace the others. I'd also like to fit a dual master cylinder.

Cheers,
Marty


--------------------
Current owner of;
1958 Right Hand Drive CJ3B.
2013 Jeep JK Rubicon Unlimited (from mid- January 2013)
former owner of;
1972 Jeep CJ5
1984 Mitsubishi Pajero (Montero) SWB
1996 Jeep ZG Grand Cherokee
2000 Land Rover Discovery TD5
2003 Jeep TJ Wrangler
2007 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia.
Top
rcolijn
Posted: Feb 27 2012, 10:16 PM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Yeah, I thought about upgrading the brake but I am not flooded with cash at the moment. I hope that with the brakebooster (which only works for the front btw), reskimmed drums and brake shoes to match, all reconditioned brake cylinders, and now new brakelines she brakes fine.... If not I'll rethink the options at a later stage. I do like the option of have a seperated front and rear though, much safer.

I did replace all brakelines, a mate of mine had some and a flaring tool, its not that hard (after watching a couple of youtube videos) but a little time consuming, quite happy with the result actually. Only thing I have to do is detach them at the wheels and blow some air through it in case some crap lodged itself in it, then the missus can help me with the bleeding, of the brakes that is, the wallet is taking for granted:)


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
Doug
Posted: Mar 1 2012, 11:27 PM


Boise, Idaho


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 635
Member No.: 8
Joined: 15-October 08



Looking really great! I am into my front axle currently and I also cannot believe how much the bearings cost!

I run stock size brakes and am happy with them so far. Like you, I went through the whole brake system, either replaced with new or rebuilt everything. I do plan on eventually going with larger brakes and dual master cylinder.

Keep up the great work!


--------------------
1963 CJ3B - F134 Hurricane, T-90C, D-18, 5.38s, Overdrive, 938YF, 12V alternator
1969 Bronco - 302, 3sp, D-20
My YouTube Channel Photobucket
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rcolijn
Posted: Mar 5 2012, 06:12 PM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



QUOTE (Doug @ Mar 1 2012, 11:27 PM)
Looking really great! I am into my front axle currently and I also cannot believe how much the bearings cost!

I run stock size brakes and am happy with them so far. Like you, I went through the whole brake system, either replaced with new or rebuilt everything. I do plan on eventually going with larger brakes and dual master cylinder.

Keep up the great work!

G'day Doug, I dont know where you live but definatly have a good shop arround the difference in price is amazing! I found mine at a reasonable price from the guys at http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/ they were the cheapest without going China brands.

They are in Queensland Australia though, not sure if that suits you.


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
Top
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