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Welcome to the CJ-3B Bulletin Board, the forum of The CJ3B Page. Everyone is invited to view the postings here, but you must register as a member in order to post messages. The moderator reserves the right to remove items posted. Items may be archived on the Tech Tips page. If you post a problem, please follow up by posting the solution when it is found, as it will likely be useful to other readers. For bulletin boards and e-mail lists covering other Jeep models, see the bottom of this page.

 

 

 Engine hoist - which bolts?
rcolijn
Posted: Apr 26 2012, 09:01 PM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



So, I am ready to attacka the engine in the resto, the engine is on a stand at the moment but I'd like to hang her so I can work a bit easier arround the engine. Can anybody advice wich bolts I can hang off?

Looking at hanging it so I can strip and paint, but also work on it to service waterpump etc...

Pictures would be REALLY appreciated!

Must update my website....


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1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
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Rus Curtis
Posted: Apr 27 2012, 06:41 PM


Member


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Posts: 1,030
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Joined: 16-October 08



rcolijn,
What an interesting question. What I was shown, and what I've done since is to attach the hoist chain to diagonally opposed head bolts. I seem to recall seeing other configurations like using a bell housing bolt as one of the mounts. The hoist chains that have the flat plates at each end are the ones I like the best. But Id only use the hoist for lifting to remove or install an engine.

To continue with my opinion, I think trying to do ANY work on an engine while it's dangling from a hoist is like trying to hold a piata still while working on it. If you want to strip (means youve got to do some type of scrubbing) then having that thing bounce around just seems like adding extra work to the project.

Having your project on an engine stand should make everything easier. You can spin the engine to any orientation - to get in those nooks and crannies and not have to get on your hands and knees to get to the bottom of the engine. And when you get to painting, you can spin it to ensure all surfaces are covered before moving on. Plus, the extra added benefit is I think its much more secure on the engine stand! I may be wrong but from memory, Im thinking the legs (where the wheels are attached) on a hoist are longer than the ones on an engine stand, meaning youd need more floor space to maneuver it around.

I know this is 180 from where you wanted to go, but Im only offering my own opinion for what Id do.


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Rus Curtis
Alabama
'54 CJ-3B
Bantam T3-C
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sdn
Posted: Apr 28 2012, 04:23 AM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 26
Member No.: 1,425
Joined: 11-March 12



supercheap and all those other mobs around Perth have engine stands going pretty cheap all the time- Worth while getting one like Rus says.

Last time I tried working on an engine dangling on chains it kept trying to attack me.

proper stand is much safer!

stephen.


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Stephen,

Perth, Western Australia

Way too slow rebuild of a 1990 Mahindra CJ340DP.
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oldtime
Posted: Apr 28 2012, 09:54 AM


MODERATOR


Group: Co-Admin
Posts: 4,388
Member No.: 3
Joined: 12-July 08



Using 2 diagonally opposed head bolt taps works well for engine lifting because it balance the block very well.
But for engine dis-assembly and rebuild I have never used a stand.
I do use a small flat roll around dolly.
With the head removed the 134 engines are flat at both top and bottom.
I really don't have enough room to keep an engine stand for the Willys engine nor the need.
I admit that next winter I may need to build a stand for rebuild of a Dauntless V-6.


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1953 TRANS-VINTAGE CJ-3B / AC 4693 fuel pump / YF 938 SD / Hurricane / 9-1/4" Auburn clutch / T90-C / 2.46 ratio D-18 / Warn O.D. / 5.375 final drive / Powr Lok Front + Rear / Dualmatic drive flanges / deluxe Koenig half cab / 12 volt generator
2nd full re-build using the best from all vintages of CJ-3B

1962 OPTIONAL-STOCK CJ-3B / Warn O.D. / Tigertop / Transport yellow (orange)
Currently serving as my one and only DAILY DRIVER

St Louis
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Bruce W
Posted: Apr 28 2012, 01:28 PM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 179
Member No.: 100
Joined: 8-November 08



Where I used to work, there were no engine stands for several years. In fact, when they did become popular the mechanics provided their own. Before we got them we used one of several stoutly-built wooden tables about 36" square. Once the crankshaft was in the block we would install the flywheel then stand the engine on the flywheel. The block could be turned around the crankshaft to change the position of the crank in the block. BW


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Bruce Walker
Northeast Colorado
'53 CJ3B "Nellybelle", '48 CJ2A "Uncle Lyndon", '47 CJ2A "Teddy", '47 CJ2A "Rusty", '47 CJ2A "Zak", '43 GPW "Sarge", '88 XJ "Pluto"
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Don
Posted: Apr 28 2012, 08:12 PM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 773
Member No.: 6
Joined: 15-October 08



QUOTE (rcolijn @ Apr 26 2012, 10:01 PM)
So, I am ready to attacka the engine in the resto, the engine is on a stand at the moment but I'd like to hang her so I can work a bit easier arround the engine. Can anybody advice wich bolts I can hang off?


I have two of these chain sets with a piece of angle I use to bolt to the block with or without the head. I bolt on all 4 corners and would encourage you to use at least four bolts if you're going to leave your block hanging for a while. I'd hate to see the block deformed at the bolt hole due to the stress.

user posted image


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Don Norris
Southeast, NC

1953 CJ3B
1959 Jeep Pickup
195? M100 trailer
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The trail never ends
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If lovin' Jeeps is wrong,
I don't wanta be right.
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rcolijn
Posted: Apr 29 2012, 11:46 PM


The Willys Workshop


Group: Members
Posts: 83
Member No.: 1,078
Joined: 29-March 11



Thanks Don, this gives me a great idea, I will fabricate the chains and hang on a beam to work on tonight.

Thanks for all the replies guys, I will do "the work" on the stand but will do the painting on chains as I reckon it'll be more accesible from all angles.

Dont worry I wont swing it:)


--------------------
1953 CJ3B, stock except for brake booster and Stromberg carburettor, on is way to be restored to former gory as original as possible. Check out The Willys Workshop or my Youtube Channel (please subscribe and leave comments if you'd like to see more!
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RamblinCJ3B
Posted: May 8 2012, 10:58 PM


Member


Group: Members
Posts: 511
Member No.: 84
Joined: 2-November 08



Honestly weather cleaning,rebuilding or painting the engine stand is the best way by far! Room to work and rotates easily for access to every nook and cranny! Just did the 4.0 I am adapting into my 72 Commando.


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Eddie
Clovis,Ca
1956 Willys PU
1962 USN CJ3B Stock
1971 Hurst Jeepster 350
1972 Commando 4.0 HO
1972 Commando I6 258
1975 J20 401
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