Wiring Diagram - feedback appreciated

Hi guys,

Nearly have the engine in so have started thinking about the wiring.
I was thinking about making one myself so came up with the following diagram.

Tell me what you think...

Its not the usual one, I found this easier to read.



Thanks guys

one thing that i don't like about the diagram, is that all the power is fed through the ignition switch, and then sent to the fuse box. when i wired my jeep i ran a wire with a inline fuse(near the solenoid) to the fuse box, then i ran power to the ignition switch and everything that needed to be powered up with the key. but the biggest thing i don't agree with on this diagram is that the headlights get their power through the key switch.

Good feedback mate, what I'll do is include a relay between battery and fusebox, then switch on/off using ignition switch.

Thats wat I like about this forum, always usefull tips!

The wiring in my 340 is OK but has been messed about with to such a degree that I considered ripping it out and starting again. A mate suggested doing it all one color (yellow - military style). I like the idea of that so perhaps the simplicity of this style of diagram would work well with that suggestion.

Plenty for me to think about- thanks for posting it.

Updated version:

For post 1956 CJ-3B see: site:z4.invisionfree.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board

Ok Fellas, here is version 3 of it all, anybody ideas how heavy the fuse for the engine should be? I am thinking 20A Maybe? I have sort of added wire sizes (in MM) to it so it would be easy to buy when needed. I was thinking that wire size should be bigger than fuse?

Also, whats should the Relay on the Starter motor be like?
Amd should I fuse the Laternator > Amp Meter, and if so how much?



Thanks again

If you wire it up with an original style harness, you can forgo all the fuses and relays. I put one in and everything works fine. There is a 30A circuit breaker on the headlight switch and a 14 on the signals.

I think you're over complicatin' this. You're fusing a lot of things that don't need to be, and I like the headlights, taillights, parklights, stoplights and horn to work with the ignition switch off. The only relay you need is the starter solenoid and maybe a horn relay, maybe one for your spotlights. Just my .02. BW

Personally I agree with these guys.
That's why I posted a link with information for building an orignial harness.
If all new wires are installed correctly there is little need for additional fuses.
The standard wiring systems has a 30 amp circuit breaker that is part of the lighting switch.
An inline "bullet" fuse goes to the heater and one goes to the directional signals.
That's it.

Thanks for the feedback guys, appreciate it. I know I am "overdoing it" but this will be a daily driver and a travel companion so I'd rather over- than under do it.

Appreciate the feedback tho.

If you are going to use this for a plan, then you should move the "kill" switch from its current location and insert it between the negative pole of the battery and "earth".

Making a wiring harness from scratch is not quite as easy as one might think. I've done it and given the choice, I'd always take the original harness, wash it and repair what needs fixing...

I've learned that wiring harnesses have two main characteristics -- connections and shape. Shape is more important than you may think.

I'd suggest that you put a wire color and gauge on every wire in your diagram before you start.

All the more reason to keep it simple, in my opinion. BW