So I've been thinking of changing the oil myself this time
Reason being since the engine has passed 200000km, I might as well learn more instead of letting someone else do the job for me, plus I got free time on weekends to burn off.

Anyways, I need some recommendation on which grade and which brand of engine oil to choose. At the moment I am thinking of the following:
1) Nulon Fully Synthetic 5w-40
2) Nulon Fully Synthetic 10w-40
3) Nulon Fully Synthetic 15w-50
4) Penrite Everyday Synthetic 5w-40
5) Penrite Everyday Synthetic 10w-40
6) Penrite SIN 0w-50

Any suggestions or recommendations welcome =]

I've been running Castrol Edge 5-30. Easy job to change. But the oil filter is in a hard to reach area :angry:

I am just concern about the summer weight being too thin since the engine will be sitting on 205000kms soon

How many kms has the yellow done?

i just the 5w-55w penrite and the motor loves it

Around 140K

An oil being too thin is not a big concern comparing to it being too Thick at start up. Start up is when 90% of engine wear happen.

Manufacturer Fully Synthetic SAE Grade Viscosity at 40C Viscosity at 100C
Mobile 1 YES 5W-30 61.7 11 Price~$80
Shell Helix Ultra YES 5W-30 67.9 11.8 Price~$65
Castrol Egde YES 5W-30 71.4 12 Price~$55

Mobile 1 YES 0W-40 75 13.5
Shell Helix Ultra YES 5W-40 74.4 13.1
Castrol Egde YES 0W-40 77.5 13.1

100C is close to normal running Temperature. Engines usually run at 90C. As you can see, there is barely any difference in the viscosity at running temp.

40C is ambiant Temp. as you can see the numbers start to deviate away from each other. At 10C it gets much worse. Thats when most the damge happen to the engine.

0W-40 and 5W-40 are both worse for your engine. Even at 100C running Temperature their Viscosities are higher. The thing to remember is that these number do not indicate Viscosity. They indicate how much Viscosity will change with Temperature.

Ideal running viscosity is 10. There is no oil in the market that get down enough to that. Best oil is Mobile 1 at 11. So there is no such thing as "oil might be too thin". That is a myth :P .. It is actually never Thin enough.

None fully Synthetic oils only get worse and worse at starting temp. e.g.

Shell Helix HX3 NO 20W-50 157 19

157 will kill your engine in a couple of winters at cold starts!

I find the Castrol Edge 5W-30 is best value for money. If you want to spend more, get the Mobile 1.

At the end of the day, with any oil you use, make sure you worm up ur engine for a couple of minutes before driving. Even with the latest manufacturing quality, cold start is the engine's main enemy. Or at least do not race engine rpm when you move.

All the data above were taken from manufacturers websites.

Here is a full table that my brother made. I mentioned it to some of the members in out last cruise. Use it wisly :P



I recomend to make this a sticky guys. Allot of people get confused about this :)

How about this?

Redline 5w30

API Service Class SM/SL/SG/CF
Viscosity Grade SAE 5W30
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 10.6
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 62
Viscosity Index 162
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @*C 60@-30
Pour Point, °C -45
Pour Point, °F -49
Flash Point, °C 252
Flash Point, °F 486
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 3.8

These numbers are even better then Mobile 1. Where do you buy this from? Price?

redline distributor in AU is selling them at $135/Gallon. Ebay is $100 shipped approx.

pretty pricey, also considering Mobile 1 EP which is about half the price of Redline

5w-20 to 10w-30 are the factory recommendations for the 1GFE. A thick 5w-30 or 10w-30 should still be fine to use in a 200K engine.
Try 0w-40 if you're concerned. I'm currently running it (Castrol Edge) in the Altezza. The 0w definitely makes a big difference on start up over Edge 5w(30) I had been previously using. It's too thick at operating temp though. I want to get my hands on some 0w-30 next service. Motul 8100 Eco-clean or X-lite 0w30 looks like the ones to get.

For your IS200 mate just use magnatec 10W 40. Is semi synthetic but its the most economical (cost per gallon not the bs they have been sprouting about fuel efficiency) oil you can buy and very good value for money since you are running a non boosted relatively high but not that high compression engine with cams that arent agressive enough to justify fully syn engine oil. I bet your mechanic (unless its been serviced at Toyota/Lexus) uses a similar oil as they buy either penrite, valvoline, mobile or castrol 44gal drums.

I would NEVER put the stuff in the Altezza but I put it in my IS200 for years and it never missed a beat and still runs smooth to this day. If your a spirited driver then maybe use castrol edge 5W-40 but its just pooring money down the drain to be honest.

BTW for all those who say weight or Watt its as in 5Watt/Weight-30 its actually Winter :D

Rami very nice write up follows exactly what we were discussing on the cruise. Redline oil is considered entry level race oil and next step up is royal purple.

THE BEST recomendation I can give is buy an oil and stick to it throughout the engines life. Engines HATE having different grades poored into it as it has to re adjust and wear specificaly to the grade that you have used. Different brands use different detergents and some dont mix well with others (especially the non syn detergents and the syn detergents). Adviod going from syn to non sy and vise versa unless you want to spend money on using extra oil to flush it each time and NEVER switch from a race oil to a street oil without using a run in oil for 30 mins or you will throw a bearing.

Its Always good to poor 100ml of fresh oil through your engine without turning it on with the oil filter out and letting it drain out as this removes extra fragments of wear and always change the filter. its a pain but so is an engine rebuild from high pressure in your oil runners and blowiung a head gasket

since i had done the conversion i used castrol edge.
god knows realistically how long the engine has been sitting there not running, i didn't have time to buy any other oil so i used castrol edge at first.
how i've done about 4000k i want to change it, so considering if i should go redline or just mobil 1 EP. i will be doing quite a bit of tracking later but i still don't know if i should pay double the price each time i do a service...

Just changed my oil few days ago, used the 5w30 castrol edge. :D

dammit..impulse kicked in...just bought 6 Gallons of Mobile1 for $280...

You don't have to restock for a loooooooooooooong time. :)

The oil will be just as good as castrol edge in a years time...

I pour the new oil in until I see it coming out the other end clean :)

Lol - expensive oil won't save your stock engine, nor does an engine need to adjust. Race oils are mono grade , so I wouldn't expect they'd ever have a place in a street engine and quite often mineral based. Run in oils are def 100%mineral oils.

Washing 100ml down your filler plug does NOTHING. The oil runs straight out the sump passing nothing of consequence along the way.

You can't beat using the right oil and doing lots of changes. More changes of cheap oil is 10 x better than shit hot oil for long service intervals.

:ot:

Matt:
There are many schools of thought on the subject of engine oil. Most myths have been sprouted by the oil companies for decades so we can mindlesly give up our hard earned to the fat cats end of year bonuses. The reason we do what we do and know what we know (for most of us that grew up on cars) is because we learnt the knowledge from our fathers, brothers, friends, trade lectures and local mechanic.
It doesnt help anyone that you shoot down someone elses opinion because thats what your mentors have taught you because they could be wrong, I could be wrong but regardless its a difference of opinion and you should respect that. Just saying your wrong and im right is not the scientific method so keep it in the toymods tech and conversions thread where they CONSTANTLY bicker about usless bs because one thinks he knows more over someone else.

If you truely belive what I have said is dribble then I would like to know why I dont like to be told im wrong without reson as does anyone else.

Back on topic:

Monograde oil is designed for cars that are specificaly designed for racing, cars that never would be registered on the street. Companies like redline, royal purple ect develop entry level racing oils for street cars.

The entry level engine oil made by these companies isnt mono grade (although they do make mono grade oil but its irrelevant to what im going to say next) is the best of the best and you pay for it. Its specificaly designed to get to operating temperature and viscosity as quick as possible and stay there whilst protecting your engine under racing conditions but unlike mono grade oil it has detergents and you are safe to leave it in your engine and preform start stop driving as you normaly would on the street and should only be used when you do your track day oil change. Its a waste of money otherwise.

If your really serious about your racing and your compenting in enduros or rallies have a decent bankroll then you would obviously use mono grade race oil (like 15W) at the track and once the race is over you would drain the oil, use a run in oil for a hundred or so kms (because race oils dont use detergents) then drain and fill with a similar grade oil such as 5W30. You would do this because street oil cant keep up with the demands of a racing environment eg engines running at peak proformance for hours on end.

Engines wear specific to the grade of oil that you use, different brands use different detergents. This takes a few hundred kms but wear in this period is at maximum especially for cold starts for the life of the oil. This information was given to me by a mechanical engineer so ill stick by that...

As far as washing 100ml down your filler plug goes well I know the filler cap goes directly down to the sump but its whats in the bottom of the sump that worries me especially if its baffled. The wear is generaly seperated so I belive as many others that it sits at the bottom of the tank and pooring the extra little bit of oil left over from the last oil change to remove the debris cant hurt. Its the same train of thought with magnetic sump plugs ect... Could be a myth could help a little but all I know is that 100mls left over from 6 months ago is useless to me...

i like your idea...since i have 6 gallons to waste i m going to do just that :P

So after reading all the replies, went to supercheap hoping to find Castrol Edge and guess what, they have a new range called Castrol Edge with Titanium

After asking the staff there the old one has been replaced with this new with the titanium in it. Also, reading from the bottle, the 5w-30 is now only at API SL instead of the SM or SN is used to be.

Checked the owner manual and and it stated any thing over the SJ class is fine.

I bought the 5w-40 at the end (because it has a SN class on it), still not sure if I should change it back to 5w-30. Any suggestions?

So they release a new product with lower spec than before? :angry:

Does this mean we should keep and eye out in case the old stock goes on special?

Assuming it is lower spec, was it cheaper then $55 (price of old one)?

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...S_april2011.pdf

According to the Product Data Sheet, Castrol Edge with Titanium still complies with SJ, SL, SM, and SN?

The 5w-30 was 60ish dollars
The 5w-40 was 70ish I think

According to the back of the bottle and this it shows the same SL rating

Just to clarify, we are talking about Castro Edge 0w40? They don't make 5w40.

If you guys want to get get all geeky about oil then have a read of bob the oil guy http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Amsoil have some good reading on their site too http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/oil_bottle.htm

About the new 5w30 Edge API only being SL rated, if you read the spec sheet it says below "Passes all engine test performance requirements of API SN and SM but exceeds Phosphorus limits of those classifications." So it isn't really lower spec'd.


*EDIT* 10w-40 semi synthetics like magnatec are not worth using Winnie. They're loaded with VI improving additives which can shear back under pressure and high heat conditions leaving the motor oil unable to protect the engine properly under high heat conditions and cause sludging.
And the thing about engines hate changing between brands/viscosity/synthetic-semi is an old wives tale

They didn't with the "old" Ccastrol Edge, but now with the titanium in it, they do.
Check it out

ARRRRHHHHHHHHHHHH!
OIL FILTER!
Y U NO COME OUT!

yeh the grip ones dont' work well .. best to get the genuine one from Toyota...

Had the belt one and the generic one from sueprcheap (looks like [ ])
Had to borrow a 3 legged one to take it off

Interesting, wonder why they do a 5w40 & 0w40 now.

I'm getting a quote on some Motul & Redline 0w30 at the moment.


*EDIT*
After looking at the pds for Edge Ti, they're quiet different beasts. The 0w-40 is thinner than it used to be, almost a 30wt. The 5w-40 is way to thick for the 3SGE. Neither have great VI which is why you'd use a 40wt. Mobil1 & Helix Ultra have better numbers.

Been looking for oil also. Which 0w30 Motul oil were you getting a quote on?

So far I've found the Motul 8100 Eco-nergy, ~$70 for 5L locally.

Viscosity grade: SAE J 300 5W-30
Density at 20°C (68°F): ASTM D1298 0.848
Viscosity at 40°C (104°F): ASTM D445 57 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F): ASTM D445 10 mm²/s
HTHS viscosity at 150°C (302°F): ASTM D4741 3.4 mPa.s
Viscosity index: ASTM D2270 163
Pour point: ASTM D97 -36°C / -33°F
Flash point: ASTM D92 226°C / 439°F
Sulfated ash: ASTM D874 0.98% weight
TBN: ASTM D2896 10.3 mg KOH/g

I never used this one .. but the nubers looks really good .. price not bad ... where are you sourcing it from?

I got Motul Fully Synthetic H Tech 100 plus 5w30 for my engine, really good price through Barry Manon (with a deal through the toyspeed forums) $100 for 8L (2 * 4L bottles - dry sump systems take a lot of oil!!)

Got the price from BNT, but nz_climber's price looks better.

Nz_climber, do you happen to know the specs of the H Tech oil? Motul's website is missing them.

Just as food for thought - I may have just paid a hefty price for running a lightweight oil.

It seems I have bruised a big end bearing following the Temora 1000. For the runs I have logs of a/f ratios, individual manifold runner pyro temperatures, fuel and oil pressure. All were perfect. External videos confirm the motor did not miss or puff out the exhaust ( a sign of detonation).

The only variable left is the oil itself. On further research it seems the oil has most likely broken down and despite haveing good pressure - ceased to do its job. Experienced engine builders have since reccomended I never use less than a 10w60 for high load applications.

I was running the new Castrol Edge 5W30.

So all you guys running lightweight oils for 0.025l litres/km of fuel efficiency, keep in mind the limitations of such an oil.

Thats relative Matt

Your talking to an audience that runs 3 different engines.

I know for a fact that stock 2JZGTES run best on 10W30 for the drags. The oil viscosity your engine needs is related to the highest temperature the weakest point in your engine can sustain which is your rod bearings. Higher viscosity = less friction but go too high and your engine will sturggle with efficiency and possibly cease. Go to low and your weakest point will get to hot and warp, throw itself out of balance and get worse and worse causing dammage to other engine components.

Running thinner viscosity gives you less drag/more performance and higher RPM then a thicker oil. It is also imperitive for variable valve gears to have a thinner oil otherwise they operate at very low efficiency.

3SGE Beams needs a thinner oil. Put more then 5W and it struggles... 1GGTE's cant use thicker oils too but they are fine using 10W.

If you are unsure what oil to use for different applications speak to your engine builder... Otherwise refer to your manual because thats what the engineers get paid for and if your worried about throwing a big end bearing then phrehaps you should think about rebuilding your engine with race bearings, sleaving your cylinders and dry sumping....

Thanks for that Winnie,

I'll make sure in the new engine that i sleave it to make sure the rod bearings dont overheat and get out of balance - I'd hate to damage the rest of my engine or cease [sic] it.

regards

Matt