I'm looking seriously into this now, but a quick couple of questions

I know the ae111 ITBs fit fine (with adaptor) but do the ae101 ITBs fit ok too? (the reason i ask is the ae111 ITBs are hard to find around)

46mm Vs 50mm size, does it make a big power difference. from what ive read it shouldnt unless im hoping to make huge power gains (which im not)

and lastly, can I still run the dual VVTI with the ITBs when i run an aftermarket ECU,

cheers guys.

To be honest I see more BT ITB's avalible.
TradeMe / but if your not already over there, Toyspeed.
Members sell / trade usually has a couple a month.

Trademe prices from 150 - 400 dollars.
I'd love to do this much later but knowing I'll need the right ECU and tune it sounds like a savings mission.

But yeah 3 sets of ST ITB's on trade me now :)

hell if you can find some BT available now, send me in that direction.
there was one i was looking at, but sold it outside of trademe. (prick)

---EDIT---
cant register for toyspeed now unless you have a paid email address.
so thats me out anyway.

Could try T-Parts, just a tad higher than the average price (not by much for a wreaker) they have a good stock usually on the 4age department.

Guess it depends on how baldy you want them at the end of the day.
Good luck I'll keep an eye out, the ones on my blacktop are required by me :lol:

appreciate that man, will look into t-parts.

It'll cost $3-4k minimum to get an ITB setup working with dual VVTI.

That's an expensive 20 horsepower!

geez thats too expensive. might as well go turbo

I didn't want to post it.

dyno before with all ducks in a row to have a measure against final gains.
ITB's:
Fabricate adaptor plate
Aftermarket ecu
correct linkages
MAF sensor
Custom made plenum
Custom made trumpets
ECU installation & tuning
Dyno after the fact to prove gains.

I'd say closer to $5500 for a final result being conservative if you cannot make half of it yourself. I'd be in this category but my mum's partner is a steal fabricator / engineer, he's always slapping steal on something his Ute, parents trailer :P

Only thing I will say is "unique" better sounding than a turbo (IMO).
Better throttle response and it’s not all about how fast you go in a straight line that matters so comments of "go turbo" while expected may not be what the OP is looking for. Gain's would be WELL more than 20hp if tuned correctly.

I imagine combined with a TRD solid flywheel/clutch system it would be rather fun.

Ahhh a harmony of four trumpets singing together is something special :D

Just wondering...
Can you have both turbo and ITB together??

I'd say yes however I'm not expert on such things but another guestimate would be that it would likely require a highly skilled tuner.

Its been done but your going to need to be one rich dude to pull that off and would not be suitable for the street.

Yes can definitely be done with the use of an intake chamber or similar. RB26DETTs use individual throttle bodies from factory

im not really in it for the extra horsepower.
for me its all about response and pleasure to drive
if i wanted big power i'd rip out the 3sge in seconds.

convieniently my brother is a stainless fabricator and my boss built his own 400kw monster. so that wont be a problem.

are you saying that quads wouldnt be streetable? or are you talking quads and turbo?

He mean's I believe, no low end, you would be braking the law every time you put it on the road i.e. impractical for road use :P (correct me if I'm wrong).

And if your serious, I 've got a response on another forum.

breaking the law?
theres plenty of cars running ITBs that are road legal.

yea im serious, its something im wanting to do.

if i tune it right i wont lose that much low end.

this is an australian tezz.

beautifully done, and road legal.



http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/10/25...ct-altezza.aspx

Nope I confused myself, that was CLM877 asking that question :P

Trumpet length, but again it's probably been proven what lengh to run with already, track and street use are really two different things.

And yup, seen that beauty, I'd cry if it got a stone chip in the bumper rofl

There's not necessarily ANY power gain from quad throttles, you could just as likely lose power.

An S2000 makes 250hp with a not overly amazing looking cast manifold with single throttle.

Altezza has a better factory intake manifold design than an S2k in my opinion.

I had a full quads setup good to go, but found that power/response/etc was great with the single throttle setup, so sold it.

"CelicaRA45" did some back to back tuning with quads or not, ~20hp improvement when in conjunction with aftermarket ECU if I recall.

Bear in mind that in order to gain 60hp, the TRD engine needed revised pistons, rods, cams, quad throttle setup, exhaust manifold, full exhaust, ECU.

You're not going to get 30-40hp from just Quads.

Its all relative, you wouldn't install a turbo without the supporting mods, neither would you just bolt on a 3-5k setup without exploring the potential elsewhere.

But yes that statement is correct, tumpets alone won't yeald much but sound.
We all know forced induction is the cheapest means to build horsepower, it's just not everyones cup of tea ;)

Don't get me wrong roman, I actually appreciate the feedback you give, generally helpful :D

if you just bolt them on and dont tune it then youll never make it better, but tune it correctly with an aftermarket ecu and there is an improvement.

again, im not looking for HP improvement. im looking for a car with a good response and something fun to drive.

celicaRA45 had his engine up to 180-ish KW atw with all his improvements.

id start with quads and ECU (with proper tune), then pair it with a less restrictive exhaust system later on.

I was referring to itb plus turbo. It would be hard to keep the noise to a minimum

Yeah I'm not bagging the idea, quads are great.

My suggestion would be that if you use the 20v throttles, do so in a way that keeps the two stage throttle actuation, to open them at a non linear rate.

Car will be much nicer to drive when just cruising that way.

Good indication of what to expect:
http://s4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...showtopic=11460

Supporting mods: :lol:
http://www.rhdjapan.com/toda-racing

Whole new car there :P

266,112.00 JPY = 3,907.47 NZD for supporting mods.
Looks like you are doing it for noise value only :D

my mate/boss that built his supra up has wicked contacts to get the link g4 stupidly cheap.
aparently you can tune it to run in a standard state, then with throttle hard down switches to a more agressive tune.
i dont know enough about this sort of thing, so am looking into that more closely.

Nah, there's no need for two different maps unless you're using different types of fuel.

The ECU determines how much air is coming in, at what rpm, in order to calculate the right amount of fuel and ignition/cam timing advance.

If your car is tuned properly, it will have all rpm/load ranges adjusted to suit, so it will drive as per a standard car.

If you convert to a MAP sensor and have poor sensor resolution (like 0-5v 4bar map sensor, when you're not running any boost) or low vaccum, then you can have problems because you're reducing the accuracy with which the ECU can tell how much air is coming into the engine.

haha i have no bloody clue what any of that means.
i know where your going with it, but ill get my buddies to tune it and leave it at that.

dave why did you tune it to map ,all i do is tune it for tps set up vacuum on no 4 cyl is renough for boosted brakes ,as wot there is no vacuum any way.

,throttle respone is much better than std plenum ,japs do it for emissions

and last just make up a airbox to cover them up

as i said my race car is like driving a std motor around the street has vvti, big quads and idles at 900 rpm and with big cams

if you use std ecu keep the plenum if going after market go quads simple ..wish i could send my car over 2 nz and do some testing would be fun etc
looked at your tracks last year when i was touring around the top island for 3 weeks

Remember we're not completely flat here. :P

Taupo racetrack is high enough up, that NA cars are noticably slower than at say, Pukekohe or Hampton because the air is thinner.

If you're running TPS only, does it account for temperature changes and atmospheric pressure difference?

That's why MAF is great, takes into account all of that automatically.

so why is a plenum not worth it?
is it not better to get colder air to the quads?
or is the work required to do that not worth the power gains?

Nah, definitely have them in a plenum.

He's saying if using standard computer, then you HAVE to have them in an airbox / retaining the MAF sensor.

This is how I had mine setup. Idled and revved out well enough, but never drove it in this configuration as changed back to single throttle before the rest of my car was drivable.

ooooh, click.

re-read it, now it makes more sense

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-458330931.htm

Yeah they seem to be the flavour of the month, yet these are the smaller of the two 20v's so better to wait until the BT quads come up.

ta for the link.
already had my eye on them from the first auction.
but as helix said, not quite right.

ok to give you a idea of my air box
also dave i run map to atmosphere and it automatically recal diffent above sea levels etc ,well motec does p island is 101 wakefeild is 90 bathurst is 50 so it all changes etc





and the last pic you can see the map sensor tube going into the air box

Aahh okay, makes sense about MAP sensor.

Where do your crank case vent hoses run to? Washer bottle?

yes thats the spare 1 as in washer bottle i also have 1 near the battery

Higgsy you still keen, apparently two members have them over at Toyspeed.
I did send you PM but unsure if you got it?

Depends on the setup... but it should if done 'right'. By TPS only he meant fuel/ign maps are setup as TPSxRPM. But there can/should still be maps to compensate for that.

You should have an IAT (just sits in the engine bay near the ITB opening) that should have a seperate map in the ECU to compensate for air temps.

A MAP sensor can either be setup to act as a Barometer (to open air) and compensate for altitude/air density, or the ecu could have both a Baro and MAP sensor (mine does IIRC). Some ECU's IIRC even take a MAP reading before starting (key on, engine off) that it uses for the baro compensation. Which is not completely ideal as if you drive to a different elevation it won't automatically compensate while still running, only after turning the key off and back on.


Andrew